You may think that this post is somewhat late – surely carnivals take place in February around the time of Pancake Tuesday and Mardi Gras, don’t they ? Well, yes and no.
Carnival celebrations are huge in the Canary Islands, and Lanzarote very much adheres to this rule. Carnival is not programmed on fixed dates, but this year carnaval season began on 1st February, with festivities, concerts and events in the capital city of Arrecife….and will conclude a whole 6 weeks later (yes, 6 weeks.!!) on 10th March, ending with a week of parades and activities in the neighbouring island of La Graciosa, just north of Lanzarote.
Carnaval arrives in the small island of La Graciosa, north of Lanzarote, 2023
Parades, concerts,music and pageants
The local streets are buzzing with activity at this time of year, and residents and tourists alike join in the noisy celebrations. There are elaborate costumes, floats and live music, ranging from the more traditional Canarian music to the latest hits. For many of the locals carnaval is a bigger event than Christmas and many bystanders will be dressed in costumes simply to watch the culmination of events as the carnival procession passes by.
But there is more to all this than just music and dancing. Some carnival traditions are intertwined with social history in Lanzarote.
A bit of history from local towns
Arrecife
Los Buches de Arrecife, a long standing tradition. Photo – Ramón Pérez Niz.
In Arrecife, from the beginning of the 19th century, the bucheros, masked and dressed in old-fashioned peasant clothing, and masked, would playfully threaten the passersby with their “weapons”, (buches) which were fashioned from the inflated bladders of large fish……hmm, maybe not the most attractive thought. In the past, the bucheros would refuse to work on the ships in Arrecife during carnival season and were fed by the locals who would welcome them into their houses.
Despite opposition from the Church and the prohibitionof the bucheros dating from the Spanish Civil War in the 1930s until the 1960s, the bucheros are still “attacking” the carnival goers today…. albeit in a revamped costume seen above in the photo (and no longer using authentic fish bladders, you may be relieved to learn.)
Teguise
Los diabletes de Teguise – the little devils from the town of Teguise, the old capital of Lanzarote.
The use of devil images is widespread througout carnivals globally, and is often a mischevious figure attempting to cause mayhem. The diabletes (little devils) of Teguise are no exception, chasing and frightening the younger inhabitants.
Their distinctive costumes with their red and green diamonds, and their colourful masks, denote both their impish nature and also symbolise fertility/virility.
Carnaval in Lanzarote offers not only a great opportunity to enjoy the vibrant celebrations, but also a unique insight into the rich cultural heritage of this spectacular island.
Have you got Christmas on your mind? Thinking about food, gifts, entertainment? A thousand other details? The UK goes into overdrive about Christmas from the beginning of November, and some people are pretty fed up with Christmasness (yes, I know it’s not really a word) by the time 25th December finally rolls around. I sometimes felt like this when I still lived in England.
Although I’ve lived in Spain for several years, I’ll be celebrating Christmas for the first time in Lanzarote this year. While Christmas in Spain has lots of similarities with Britain – it’s family time, we eat lots of special foodstuffs and give each other presents, the monarch makes a speech – there are some differences too. And some of them may surprise you.
The run-up to Christmas
Spain has Christmas ads and commercials, but not to the same extent as the U.K. where everyone is bombarded with a huge retail campaign from 1st November onwards, and it is also not uncommon to see Christmas items on sale well before the winter months.
Over the years I have lived in Spain, the yuletide preparations have slowly increased in volume and the Christmas promotions have started a little earlier each year – but still not to the extent reached in Britain.
Christmas shopping in Arrecife, Lanzarote’s capital, early December 2023 -no crowds!
Life is not perfect here in Lanzarote, or anywhere else. But the laid-back island vibe helps to keep everyone relatively sane. And the mild winter climate and sunshine help, of course….were it not for the festive decorations. it would be hard to believe that it really is Christmas.
Christmas Eve/ Nochebuena
British Christmas fare
So you may already know that we have our family Christmas dinner in the evening in Spain, on Christmas Eve. And we don’t have a set meal, like in England, where a traditional Christmas dinner consists of a roast turkey, with all the trimmings, although it’s also true that nowadays more and more people are choosing an alternative menu which caters more to their taste.
Spain is a diverse country, with a rich gastronomy that varies from province to province. This is why the Christmas Eve (Nochebuena) menu tends to differ everywhere in Spain.
Roast turkey might be on the menu, particularly in the Balearic Islands or in Galicia, in the northwest of the country. But the main dish could be any type of roast meat (lamb and pork are popular choices) or fish or even shellfish, taking advantage of the availability of local delicacies.
A delicious salmon dish
In the Canary Islands, fish is often the star of the show, as the Canaries have access to a wide variety of delicious fish from the Atlantic – for example, cherne (wreckfish) or bocanegra (scorpionfish). Many species of tasty locally sourced fish are available, which are not generally found in other parts of Spain.
Slicing the ham takes a certain skill
And there’s always a wide range of tapas provided as extra nibbles. In the colder parts of Spain in the north (not talking Canaries here, obviously) broths and soups are often on the menu to start off the feast.
Other extras might include jamón iberico (cured ham), cheeses, small pastries, prawns and other types of seafood. In the Canaries papas arrugadas (wrinkled and salted boiled potatoes) with delicious sauces (mojos) are also likely to make an appearance.
In Spain we have many sweet treats during Christmas time, but one of the most traditional is turrón – a type of nougat made from honey and nuts which was popular from the Islamic conquest of Spain in 711. There were originally just two varieties
Turrón de Alicante – a rigid block of around 50% almonds plus honey and sugar.
Turrón de Jijona – this is nougat with a soft consistency, made from toasted crushed almonds and mixed with honey and egg whites.
In the photo above you can see turrón de Alicante third from the left on the second row. Turrón de Jijona is second from the left, first row.
Nowadays, apart from the original turrones, there are also many other varieties with a huge range of different flavours. The photo shows chocolate praline, glazed fruit, chocolate truffle and walnut, and rum and raisin, amongst others. Unfortunately these treats are probably not for anyone strictly watching their calorie intake.
The royal speech
And finally, a nod to the King’s speech, just like the UK. The only difference is that it’s always scheduled for 9pm on the evening of Nochebuena, at the same time as the family gathering… (oh, and it’s in Spanish, which you may have already guessed…)
Christmas Day/Día de Navidad
Christmas Day has a bit of a Boxing Day vibe, as everyone is recovering from the festivities the night before. But it’s still a bank holiday and an important day in the calendar.
A lot of Spanish people will go out for a special lunch to celebrate, and there are always eateries in holiday destinations which offer English Christmas dinners – although I would advise you to also sample some of the incredible gastronomy Spain has to offer.
The old Spanish tradition of receiving presents from the Three Kings on Epiphany, January 6th, is still going strong. However, with globalisation, and the practicality of children being able to enjoy their presents for the remainder of the Christmas holidays, gifts are given more and more on 25th December, although a lot of lucky Spanish kids will also receive another gift on January 6th from the Three Kings. We know these regal giftbearers as the Three Wise Men.
This post may have arrived just after Christmas Day, but wishing all our readers the very best for the rest of Christmas season.
Do you know of any more Christmas traditions in other countries which are totally different to Britain?
Yes, the Canary Islands are famous for their sub-tropical climate, with mild winters and pleasant, not boiling, summers. They are an all-year-round holiday destination for tourists looking to enjoy the sun. So we were looking forward to mild temperatures and some warmth on our arrival.
But 2023 has brought us winter in February. Unprecedented hailstones with rainy days and lower temperatures than the norm. And winds. Lanzarote is windy at the best of times, although a breeze in summer can be a welcome addition that creates a comfortable temperature of around 25 degrees centigrade. But recently the wind in Lanzarote has made its presence known in no small measure. You would probably guess this right now by the windswept look of both locals and tourists.
The surfing scene
The winds are part of life on the island. The North East Trade winds blow consistently throughout the year and create the types of waves much loved by surfers. I’m told that Lanzarote is also known as the Hawaii ofEurope in surfing circles, with plenty of opportunities for surfers of all levels.
Surfer in action, courtesy of Openverse.
Calima
Another facet of these strong winds is the calima effect. Calima translates as haze, produced when particles of dust and/or smoke are suspended in the air, obscuring the sky and turning it a deathly shade of white. If it rains during the hazy period, then those layers of red dust appear everywhere, and this does mean in every nook and cranny far and wide…
Damp cloths and elbow grease must be out in force to clean it away. As the Canary Islands are so near to Africa, dust clouds from the Sahara are a common phenomenon, but it has been known for the calima to travel as far as the Caribbean.
The neighbouring island of Gran Canaria, during a period of calima. Photo courtesy of El Independiente.
Yet despite the lower-than-usual temperatures, the wind and the calima, we still cannot complain too much. Much of Europe is still in the grip of a cold weather front and it is still winter.
Yet today, 27th February, the sun is back and spring seems to be in the air. Will it last, I wonder?
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